Chef Christophe Le Metayer: Where Art and Food Collide
Thursday, December 3rd, 2009
By Madison Massey.
The metro Atlanta area is dotted with hundreds of tucked away culinary gems. Field Good Gourmet Deli, featuring the refined creations of Chef Christophe Le Metayer, is a North Fulton jewel that should not be missed. Hailing from France, with over 25 years of gastronomic experience, Le Metayer remains humbly understated in a world of overboard cuisine. I stumbled upon his restaurant when my publisher summoned me there for a meeting. As we ordered a couple of espressos, I asked the chef if they had chai tea to make a dirty chai latte. Unfortunately for me, I had to settle for a simple latte, because they did not carry chai. By the time my meeting was finished, I returned to the counter to thank our host, and to my utter dismay, Christophe presented me with a pot from his stove filled with chai tea he had made from scratch. Starbucks, eat your heart out. It was the best dirty chai latte I have ever had. At that point, if I may sound so trite, Christophe Le Metayer had me at chai!
… Hailing from France, with over 25 years of gastronomic experience, Le Metayer remains humbly understated in a world of overboard cuisine …
On a cloudy Monday afternoon, with the quiet café closed to the public for its day off, I spent two inspiring hours indulging in conversation and cookery with the charismatic chef. I would leave that day with a fresh outlook on my, admittedly less than positive, preconceived notions about French food, as well as French chefs.
Field Good is too relaxed to label as a bistro, yet it exudes more character and experience than the images we often associate with a simple delicatessen. The awning above the door advertises the quaint, café-like surroundings as a gourmet deli. Although, I came to discover that Chef Christophe isn’t completely comfortable having his French background associated with the sometimes haughty term, “gourmet”. The chef attended the formal French culinary school, Lycee d’état De St. Quentin en Yve Lines, beginning when he was just sixteen. However, the experience of working as a chef in France did not develop into as desirable an experience for Christophe. After years of predictable, unfulfilling, albeit appreciated, positions throughout his career, Le Metayer hopes to have finally unearthed a long sought after sense of job satisfaction. That has been his goal in creating Field Good, which Christophe has successfully done with the aid of partner chef, Cody Taylor. The pair formerly worked together at the Ritz Carlton Buckhead, prior to opening this store. Though, with its relaxed, inviting atmosphere, Field Good presents itself in a manner far more inviting than your average table at the Ritz.
Approximately, three years ago Le Metayer began to dabble in food photography. A collection of his work was published this year in his book, “Enhanced Cuisine”. Today, the walls of Field Good illustrate the chefs beautiful, abstract portraits of simplistic, raw foods. I, curiously, asked Christophe, “Where do you believe the relationship between food and art meet?” He explained to me that food has escaped from its natural connection with human beings. Keeping food simple and beautiful brings the act of eating back to nature and awakens all of the human senses, and as a result, consumption rediscovers its more animalistic roots. Le Metayer prefers using no more than four or five ingredients in preparing a dish. He feels it is better not to over-complicate the palate. Le Metayer’s sentiments concerning the art of food are best summed up in the following excerpt from his book.
… keeping food simple and beautiful brings the act of eating back to nature and awakens all of the human senses, and as a result, consumption rediscovers its more animalistic roots …
“Coming from a place where food has been treated with a cultural approach for centuries with a diversity of specialties, even in the smallest villages, made me understand that I have the opportunity to transform in a few hours, minutes, or even seconds, an ancestral edible product into a moment of pleasure. These magic transformations happen in my hands and reflect on the faces of the guests. It is not insignificant. It goes in the mouth. It is swallowed. It can’t be more carnal and sensual. Transform an ephemeral moment into an unforgettable memory. In a great kitchen and at a great table, so much can be shared with others. These are probably the last civilized places where pleasures with no limit can be experienced. Let your imagination wander. I try to transpose all these feelings in my photos…”
The fare being showcased at Field Good is not limited to recipes of French descent. While, you could be tempted by the gorgeous pastries for breakfast or a croque monsieur for lunch, Christophe informs me that he really takes pleasure in offering personalized variations on American classics, such as the traditional BLT, homemade biscuits with sausage gravy, and even a Georgia trail mix salad with peach dressing. Each Sunday is highlighted by the “Field Good Brunch” from 11:00 a.m. to 3:00 p.m., starting at an affordable $10. Beyond breakfast and lunch, Le Metayer is serving pre-set five course dinners every Saturday evening. Do not be intimidated, I am assured the dinner is a casual affair. The restaurant is certainly worth a trip to dine-in, however the chef offers meals made fresh to go, with tailored menus for all occasions. An, “In Office Friday Delivered Lunch”, can be ordered, delivered, and is served in individually packaged portions of lunch menus that change for each Friday of the month. Catered menus for holiday events are also available to order for pick up. I witnessed the popularity of this option for myself, as I interviewed the chef just a few days prior to Thanksgiving, the chef was still busy taking calls from patrons on his day off. I really enjoyed seeing a restaurant that is breaking the mold, giving the public options that don’t follow the lead of what we typically find in each new shopping center that makes up the urban sprawl around Atlanta.
If you are interested in paying Chef Christophe a visit, you can find Field Good Gourmet Deli at11500 Webb Bridge Way in Alpharetta 30005. For ordering info call (770)-343-9697 or go to FieldGood.com.
(Enjoy some of Christophe Le Metayer’s photography masterpieces – above in the article and here the images are click-able for a higher definition version:)
Tags: Alpharetta restaurants, Art, Art and Food, Atlanta, atlanta restaurants, caterer, catering services, chai tea, Chef Christophe Le Metayer, Christophe Le Metayer, cooking classes, cooking schools, cuisine, culinary arts schools, culinary gems, culinary school, dirty chai latte, Field Good Gourmet Deli, food, food photography, France, French chef, french culinary school, French food, gastronomic, gourmet food, Johns Creek restaurants, Madison Massey, metro Atlanta, metro Atlanta area, North Fulton, pastry chef schools, photographer, photographers, Photography, restaurant, restaurants, Ritz Carlton Buckhead
More articles by Madison Massey
I so enjoy going to that cafe! Christophe has turned this little hole-in-the-wall in a real unique coffee shop and eatery. Excellent choice for people who want to avoid the cookie cutter Starbucks and Caribou. Why wouldn’t you go to a coffee shop which is not part of a national commercialized chain, that has it own character exclusively expressed by the chef’s photographic talent, and where you can get actual fresh food served. Free wi-fi too (what century is Starbucks planing to get on that band-wagon?)